10 MOST POPULAR Embellishments you should not miss for your Indian Wedding Dresses
India has a rich cultural heritage which has been preserved since decades. Kings and queens attire used to adorn with the beautiful embroideries which served as a royal privilege.
An outfit is incomplete without the embroidery and embellishments over it. Even small embroidery will turn your boring outfit in a trendy and party wear.
Embroidery is a time consuming work. It involves various craftsman and dedicated work. Hand work is expensive but it is more attractive and unique than the machine work. There are various embroidery work and hand work which has been used for ages in India.
Embroidery & Hand work follows a basic procedure which is mentioned below:
- Sketching: The craftsman or designer first works on the design. Once the design is finalize, it is trace on the tracing paper. It is called blue print of embroidery / hand work or ‘Khaka’ in hindi.
- Punching: Once the design is traced, the minute dots/holes are punched on the outline of the design with hand or with the machine.
- Printing: After the design is punched, the solution is put on the punched tracing paper and placed above the fabric where embroidery / handwork is to be done. The design outline gets printed on the fabric through the tiny holes.
Following are the most popular type of work that can be used to embellish your Indian outfit.
1. Zardosi work
Zardozi is a Persian word that means sewing with gold string. ‘Zar’ means gold and ‘Dozi’ means embroidery. It involves making beautiful designs such as leaves, flowers and such natural motifs using gold and silver wires. Now- a-days due to cost efficiency, silver and gold threads are replaced by silver and gold plated polish metallic wires. Saadi, Salma, kinara, Chilak, are used to make zardosi work.
Image source: www.indiamart.com
2. Gota work
An embroidery of Rajasthan where the tradition of gotta embroidered sarees, lehengas and dupatta started in wedding. This is an appliqué technique in which the gold and silver ribbon is woven by satin or twill weave and then the woven gold cloth is placed on other fabrics. Usually the gota are cut out into finer shapes and the detailing of beading, sequins and semi- precious stones are also given in the design.
3. Kutchi – work
Kutchi work is the embroidery work done by using vibrant and colorful woolen, silk threads and creating beautiful motifs with needlework. This interlacing stitch is done in geometric form and mirrors and beads are used. It is also known as Sindhi stitch. It is a popular stitch of Gujarat, mostly performed in Kutch and Saurashtra region of Gujarat.
You can find the kutchi work or kutchi bharat mostly in Chaniya choli (Lehenga choli) worn in Navratra festival. This colorful art is not just limited to chaniya choli; kutchi work can also be seen in kurtis, bags, scarves, sandals, covers and many more.
A very famous embroidery art of India that originated in Lucknow is now spread all over the world. The art of doing chikan work is known as ‘Chikankari’. Chikan work use to be done on a muslin and white cotton cloth with the white thread. To match the trend, today Chikankari is performed on various light weight fabrics such as cotton, silk, georgette, chiffon, crepe with the colorful threads. Usually the backstitch, chain stitch and hem stitch is used in creating beautiful motifs of flowers, creepers and stem. The beauty of chikankari also reflects on the back side of the fabric.
5. Resham Embroidery:
This is very trendy and widely used machine embroidery done with colorful silk threads. Different complex patterns are created using resham embroidery which changes the look of the outfit. It enhances the beauty of the cloth through its colorful sheen threads and precise stitches. Resham embroidery is also done by hand.
6. Mirror work:
In Mirror work, the different shapes and sizes of mirror is fixed on the fabric using different decorative embroidery stitches. It is also known as ‘Sheesha work’ and ‘Abhala work’. Now days instead of mirrors, the luminous metals pieces and silver coated materials are also used on fabrics. The mirror work is widely used in sarees, blouses, dresses, bags,..
7. Cut dana work:
In Cutdana work, the stones that are cut in different shapes and angles are sewn in to the fabric using thin thread. These stones are stitched into different patterns and designs using the embroidery work and thus giving the sparkling effect to the outfit. Due to the intricate pattern and shiny effect, cutdana work is mostly found in the bridal lehengas and outfits. It makes the attire heavy and glamorous due to its decorated shiny stones.
8. Mukeish/ Mukesh work:
Originated in the Lucknow city, this art uses the silver and gold threads that are twisted and flattened into tiny metallic disk to create different pattern and motifs. The most common pattern is a dot. These metallic wires are placed in to the fabric and thus giving luminous effect to the outfit.
9. Bead work:
Pearl/ Moti work: Pearls can be found in various shapes, sizes and colors. It has been used since the Mughal era to adorn the attire and crown of queens and kings. Pearls/ Moti are gathered in equal sizes and are sewed in the fabric using a thin hand needle. The design is inspired from natural motifs, flowers, plants and geometric shape. The Moti work looks very classic and royal and therefore outfits with pearl embroidery are popular for wedding attire.
Sequence/ Stones/ diamonds work: Usually sequence, stones and diamonds are used over the embroidery to give a touchup and enhance the embroidery work done on the fabric. They change the overall appearance of the outfits due to its shining quality. Sequence, Stones and diamonds are available in many colors, shapes and size. The size and color are used according to the embroidery design and fabric color. Sequence work can be done both by hand and machine.
Cutwork is a technique where portions of fabric are cut and the remaining part is stitched with embroidery work to make the beautiful patterns. The gaps are filled with intricate embroidery and the cut edges are stitched to avoid the edges from fraying. It is usually done to highlight the neckline and borders and enhance the look of the outfit.
Cut-work technique is done by hand as well as by laser machines.
Apart from the above embroideries, Kashmiri work, Phulkari embroidery, Kasuti, Kasab and Zari embroidery are also famous in India.
The embroidery is used in combination with each other making the outfit look heavier and attractive.